going home

Well so I have discovered blogging is not my forte huh? I have abandoned you. It has been 4 months since I wrote last. Those months have been relatively boring, which is my poor excuse for the lack of entries. But the last two months have taken quite a different tone. Here is my inept attempt at explaining things from my point of view. I will try to sum up each of the months that I failed to talk about my life.

October
The rains stopped and I was able to stay in village the whole month with only occasional weekend trips to Maroua. I did a few sessions on the environment with some primary schools in the area. One of my favorite things I did was outplanting millet with my church group. There were about 40 people that went out to the field, some were digging holes, others were pouring water into the holes and the rest were putting the millet plugs into the holes. At lunch time, they cooked a huge meal. I counted 20 huge plates of couscous and sauce, followed by tea. It was such a great day, feeling really connected to the people. One of my journal entries talked about how happy I was with that feeling of being connected. I can read back on days when I felt so alone and in the dark; having a month of being in sync was so refreshing. I finished up the month by harvesting my crops. With a lot of help. I had a big sack of peanuts, soy, groundnuts, and corn. It was really satisfying being able to work with my hands so much. But I was struck by the idea that my food intake did not depend whatsoever on what I harvested. I wonder if the hours in the sun would take a different meaning if I was constantly worried whether it was going to be enough. Some late rains ruined a lot of crops and had a lot of people worried. But they chose to sing and laugh in the fields anyway.

November
The first week of November was a tough one. I loved the rainy season, I loved seeing everything turn green and remembering what clouds looked like and storms sounded like. But there are other things that come with the rain. All that sitting water brings mosquitos. Mosquitos bring malaria. I knew so many people who got sick with malaria. When adults got it, they were usually able to take medicine and continue, but the kids took it much harder. A couple of my friends babies died. Then my counterpart got sick and passed away. He didn’t die from malaria, but another major killer in Africa, AIDS. He had been sick for four years. The feeling of being connected to my village carried over, but it was a deeper feeling of sharing their pain as well. About two days later I had to go to the South to help with training for the new group of Peace Corps trainees that had arrived in September. It was a really good trip, they seem really motivated. It felt strange to be in a place where I was giving advice, I still felt like I needed more training. I got home in time to get ready for my parent’s planned trip to come and visit. And this is where things started slipping out of my control.

December
The first week of December I spent in village, and then the next week I headed South for our midservice, which is basically a week of medical tests at the end of the first year to make sure we are still healthy. It came off without a hitch and I even got my teeth cleaned. Towards the end of the week I got the phone call from my mom that they were probably not going to come. My dad had found a lump on his neck that worried the doctors enough for them to recommend him staying home. My mom asked me if I would want to come home during that time block instead. So we agreed and I got on a plane two days later. I wish I could try to explain what was going through my head during those 48 hours, but it’s a bit difficult. I was the first one off the plane and tried to make myself walk and not run to the baggage claim and search frantically for those 5 people I left behind. Have any of you seen my niece? Well she’s beautiful. Sure she looks like my brother, but she didn’t get that pretty from him, that we owe to D’Lynn. The next two weeks were busy seeing family, eating Mexican food, playing Wii, helping my dad de-worm the cows, and laughing at some ridiculous notebooks from high school. My dad had a couple of appointments while I was home and it was nice to be there for that. But at the end of the trip, we didn’t know much more than when I got there. So New Year’s Day, I got on a plane again thinking I would meet my friends for our planned trip to Mali.

January
The 1st day of this year was pretty stressful. A broken airport tram, a couple of flights that left early, and a very unhelpful desk clerk in Dallas combined to mean an overnight stay in Chicago (that included a pretty great day in the city and at the Museum of Contemporary Art). This meant as well that going to Mali was not going to happen. I made it to Yaounde and took a trip with some girls to the beach instead. It was such a relaxing few days, swimming, eating fish, watching sunsets over islands. They were a great group to go with, and became a mini support circle when I got another of those phone calls on the way to dinner one night.

My mom called and said that my dad had cancer. He would start chemo and radiation as soon as possible. I don’t really remember much of the conversation. I remember when I hung up we were walking down a dirt road and a group of children started practicing their English and running circles around us. I started laughing and told them to respect my own personal little crisis. They just kept yelling and dancing. In the next minutes I made the decision to leave Cameroon to be with my family. It was the hardest, quickest decision I have ever made.

The past couple of weeks have been a long goodbye. I went home to my village and told people. I was overwhelmed by how much they supported my decision. They told me to greet him for them, tell him to get well soon, and thanked him for giving them this past year with me. I spent a weekend in Maroua with the other volunteers and said good-bye to most of them yesterday. The incredible amount of support and understanding I have received from Cameroonians, ex-pats, fellow volunteers, and Peace Corps staff has been a constant reminder that I am doing the right thing.

This experience hasn’t been done justice by this blog. I have become a new person, I have seen how blessed I am to come from where I am, but also how much I have missed out on. I am sure that the next few weeks will be hard: adjusting to life in the States, being there for my dad and my family in this valley. But one thing I have learned for sure in this year is that life is not in the laughter and yelling and dancing only. It’s in the tears and the anger and sadness mixed with the laughing, yelling and dancing. It’s all of it together. And we are never alone.

something different

19 September 2009

This day last year I was on a bus from Philadelphia to New York to board a plane that would take me to a country I had never been seen on a continent I had only read about.  Now that place feels a bit like home.  There are so many things that I have gotten used to and so many things that I haven’t.  It’s been a crazy year, and it’s flown by.  Especially the past few weeks.  After months of a slow-paced life in village, I have had two trips to Yaounde for work for Peace Corps administration.  The first trip was as a member of the Steering Committee for the Agro-forestry program.  Seven ag volunteers met over two days to talk about the project plan, insure the upcoming training reflected the new project plan, and take care of any other business needed to be addressed.  I really appreciate the opportunity to be a part of the committee and it’s been really great to see the plan and all the steps involved to support its implementation across such a diverse country with so many volunteers.  I should mention that the trip to Yaounde takes 20 hours (if there are no problems) to get there and 20 more to come back.  

 

So after this meeting, I headed back to post for a week.  That week I mostly spent recovering from the long trip before getting all my stuff together to do it again.  This last trip was for a training of trainers involved with the upcoming Pre-Service Training (the same thing I did for the first two and a half months I was here).  It was three days of refresher courses on how to give presentations in a way that makes sure the new trainees gain the knowledge in a comfortable environment.  New participants gave demo presentations, and technical groups made sure they had all the resources ready to give to new trainees.  Again it was really cool to see the other side of what I went through a year ago.  I will be giving presentations on formal and informal extension, but not until the middle of November.  It’s pretty intimidating to think about training a group of peers, but I am doing the sessions with my boss and that will make it a bit easier.  During the last trip down I was able to go to a World Cup qualifying match between Cameroon and Gabon.  It was mass chaos, but so much fun.  Cameroon won; I am not sure what that means over all, but just that one peak at it was awesome.  I also took a weekend trip to see a friend’s post a few hours away.  It was so beautiful, made me a bit jealous.  It was cold almost and so green.  She also had food readily available on her street, not fair.  When I came back to Yaounde, I was able to see Gene Kornegay, a friend from my church in College Station, who was in Yaounde for work.  It was nice to be able to get caught up on stuff going on at home, as well as see a familiar face.  If you haven’t seen pictures on Facebook, I also cut all my hair off.  Another volunteer is a great hairstylist and I really like it.  It’s a bit dramatic, but a fun change. 

 

I came back to Maroua and last night a few volunteers and I went to one of the nicest restaurants in town to celebrate our year anniversary.  The past few weeks have been great, but I am really looking forward to getting back to my village.  See my friends and get back into the community.  I have a better idea about what my work should look like and (I realize I have said this before) I really think I will be able to find more things to do.  We’ll see!  I will try to update on how that goes in a few weeks ago.  The best news I have gotten in the past few days is that my parents bought their tickets to come visit!  They arrive in December and we will spend Christmas in my village.  I really can’t describe how excited I am to see them.  Sitting down and talking to them face-to-face seems to good to believe.  Hey, you should come too.  Any takers?

perceptions

I have mentioned in the past blogs a distinction between expectation and reality.  The gap between what I pictured “Africa” to be before I came and the life I experience here now.  There are times when that expectation of the past comes strongly with an emotional voice that screams “ I am in Africa!”  That came once when I was on the back of a moto watching a little boy stand stiocly on a huge rock while his flock of goats surrounded him and the sun fell behind him.  And again walking past a weedy field with bent-over women who lift their heads to acknowledge me and then continue their work in the midst of probably gossip and obvious laughter. The expectation and the reality is women with buckets of water on their head and babies tied to their backs.  It is men in robes riding rusty bikes.  Boys running barefoot down a red-dirt road behind an old rolling tire.  These are simple things, but they are not simple people.  To expect to understand a continent based on these small pictures is the claim mastery over physics because you can count to ten.

 

There was a book in the Peace Corps house on Maroua that created hours of entertainment for us, and not because of literary genious.  The most obvious flaw was grammar.  The book clearly lacked an editor and read like a first draft from a jr. high student.  Verb tenses changed back and forth from present to past.  Number agreement was a rare occurance and run-on sentences with no commas frequented every paragraph.  The title to the book was My Journey to Africa: The Truth About Africa.  Even that was laughable considering she had written it afer a 6-week study abroad trip.  We laugh because we see the gaps between her perception and our reality.  She condescendingly explains that Cameroonians don’t use American dollars (!), but have their own money.  She comments that even if kids look poor, sometimes they aren’t because they wear expensive brands like Nike or Puma.  She must not have noticed that Puma was actually spelled Pama and the Nike check was facing the wrong way.  We laugh because of grammatical errors and we relish the fuel it feeds to our growing suspicion that we are experts on Cameroon.

 

In two years, our perception and the reality of the situation will have grown much more similar.  We learn new things everyday.  We see a fuller picture everyday.  Other development workers I have met tend to be a bit more seperated from the people they are working with.  (of course with many, many exceptions; including VSO and especially a certain neighboring volunteer that rocked her pagna with the best of them)  For the connection to the people and the daily opportunities I have to ask questions as well as be a silent observer, I am deeply grateful.  Everyday I am here, that grand image of “Africa” and the life in this village more further and further away.  But two years is not enough.  When I come home, I will still have a flawed perception.  It will be clearer and closer to reality of course.  But suggesting that I will understand a community, much less a continent after a mere two years simplifies peoples and problems that are infinitely complex.

 

This has implications for development of course, but also the way I treat other people while I am here and for the rest of my life.  My work here should be initiated by the people.  I want to help fill gaps in information and direct the people to the sources of that information, but not tell them what direction they should take.  If not, development more closely resembles colonization which creates dependance rather than autonomy and empowerment.  Equally important to my work and life and perhaps more important to yours is the impact on daily interactions with pthers.  People deserve the benefit of the doubt.  Putting people in boxes based on your perception, be it founded on appearance or actions, cuts you off from a depth that is never seen at first glance.  People and lives are not simple, it is our own ignorance that makes them appear that way.  And when we are able to see others more fully, we can see ourselves more fully as well.

 

C.S. Lewis said it in the only way I have been able to understand it: “There is no reason to suppose that self-consiousness, the recognition of a creature by itself as a ‘self’, can exist except in contrast with an ‘other’, a something which is not the self.  It is against an environment and preferably a social environment, an environment of other selves that the awareness of Myself stands out”.  Would you know Patience if there were no one to practice it with?  Would selfishness be a vice if there was no one other from which you were turning?  Just take a second to see other people, there is probably more there than you think.

 

Aside from boring thinking like that, I have been working in the fields a bit.  Everything is planted, peanuts, groundnuts, and soy.  I am hopefully planting trees soon in my counterpart’s field.  I have a cat.  She doesn’t have a name yet, so suggestions are welcome.  She got on my nerves at first, but she is growing on me, a bit like a disease.  My garden is doing great, but the timing was a little off.  I have squash, but everything else is pretty small.  The radishes are too dry and so they don’t taste great.  Peppers and tomatoes are small.  Pole beans should start soon, as well as the lonely cucumber plant.   Thanks to Granny and Granddad for all the seeds.  I am off to lunch now, I love and miss all you guys.  Send me a note to let me know what everyone is up to.  I am sorry I never post.  I will do better, even if that’s what I said before…

a field

I am sitting in an internet cafe waiting on a file to download. I left the case in Maroua to begin this task at 7 this morning; it is now 9:01 and there seems to be no end in sight. I have been quite neglectful of the blog lately and I apologize. I guess I just have a hard time finding new things to write about that will interest you guys. But I have given that excuse before, so I guess I will have to find others. Perhaps the flooded road, the fritzy internet/electricity, or the fact that it’s planting season and to ensure I do not reinforce any stereotypes that white people are unable to do manual labor, I accepted the challenge of having my own field this year. Now before all of you get all impressed, or perhaps justifiably panicked, let me define “my own field”.

Earlier in the year I was given a sac full of seeds. Most were trees, but it also included peanuts and corn. Now given that I am an agroforestry volunteer I knew the seeds were probably intended to be put in the ground and, I don’t know, maybe watered or something. That was a few months ago and now I am the proud owner of 40 luecaena trees, despite sabotage attempts by dogs, pigs, small children, and hungry goats. So I am going to find a field that is already so far depleted cotton and millet won’t grow without a bunch of expensive fertilizer (already, I didn’t do it, no where to go but up). I am going to try a field of peanuts, soy beans, and luecaena trees. This is in the hopes that it will give me some sort of proof of the animations (about all the things trees can do) which I will start during the next off season, which is not long enough to actually see results, but at least I can show the farmers what I am talking about instead of only mumbling in incoherent French. ( the file just said something in French that means I have to start over, magnifique!) This is going to be a very small field and my neighbour Esther told me that she would help me. Usually when Esther says she will help me, she ends up doing most of the work. She does however defend me when other people say I can’t work, and use my uncaloused hands as proof. Maybe the next post will have pictures of blisters. Or not.

I will try to post more coherently soon, but I only have 3 min left.

may

19 May 2009

It feels like its been a long time since I have written anything, probably because it has.  But also I have been gone a lot and so the time has gone by really fast.  A couple of weeks I went to the South for a little vacation to the beach.  It took 2 days to get there, a 7 hour bus ride, overnight train, and another 3 ½ hours bus ride.  The beach was great, it was a nice get-away from the crazy heat in the past few weeks.  I got back to my village after staying a night in Yaounde and one in Garoua with my host family.  When I got to post, everyone was getting ready for a big fete.  It was put on by the development committee of the village, who does things like raising money and then deciding what to use it on.  There were a ton of people that came in town just for that.  They elected a new officer team and collected donations.  They served meat, rice, and drinks to the invitées.  I was considered one of the important people so I ate with the chief, the Sous-Prêfet (kind of like District Representative), and the President of the committee.  This was after sitting in the nice chairs for the actual ceremony.  There was a generator and so we had microphones and music.  There was also traditional dancing to their traditional drumming (at the same time, which seemed to bother no one).  The drum is really tall, probably 5 or 6 feet; a man stands on a stool to play it.  The people go around in a circle shaking their shoulders up and down.  They loved it when I tried, even as I profusely stated I see na ta, I don’t know how!  They shook their heads and replied ki see nay lay, you know!  This Saturday there was a repeat of the same fete in Gazad.  The Sous-Prêfet and I will probably be best friends soon.  He speaks to me in broken English and reminds everyone constantly that they better take care of me or they will have to answer to him.  He lectured my counterpart about making sure someone was getting water for me 3 times a day.  I should of spoken up and said I do it on my own, but my counterpart just nodded and said “of course, of course sir”.  We will probably be best friends soon, tomorrow is Independence Day and so I will likely see him again, when we once again sit awkwardly with a few other people, usually men or white, eating rice and meat sauce and drinking Cokes, while everyone else sits outside.

Work has been really slow.  I am reading a book by a guy that was a Peace Corps Volunteer in Zambia a few years ago.  I don’t really like it that much, but one thing he said stuck out to me.  “I thought at first, as many volunteers do, that working for Peace Corps was about the job.”  He was talking about how difficult it was to get things going in his assigned project, but how most people kept saying it was ok, to focus on “cultural exchange”.  I haven’t yet decided what I think about that.  I realize that the exchange is also really important.  But it seems like if I don’t at least try to get things rolling in agroforestry, that people will remember the white girl that was here as the one who played with kids and sat under trees, instead of planting any.  It seems like a cop-out to say that “cultural exchange” is the most important thing.  I am pretty sure that could justify doing whatever you want.  Or maybe I came here with too many idealistic expectations of the impact I was going to have, and I am just not ready to give those up.  It certainly would alleviate some pressure if I thought the work I was assigned to wasn’t that important.  So the jest of this stream of consciousness, is that almost 6 months in my village have passed, and I am still unsure about my role.  But it’s a pretty cool place to have to figure it out.  And obviously by cool, I don’t mean temperature!

new normal

21 April 2009
In the last blog, I talked about getting into a routine. It occurred to me that routine includes some things I would have thought pretty bizarre just a few months ago, 7 to be exact.

The List
• Sweating constantly, day and night
• Wearing the same clothes for a week
• Hours of free time everyday
• Washing my hair twice a week, maybe
• Washing half of my laundry, then doing the other half a few days later, when my hands have healed
• Having the same exchange about 20 times a day
o mbrike? (what is there?)
o Anta (nothing)
o kuy kuy aya? (are you good?)
o kuy kuy dagay (it’s good)
• Having to remember in what language to greet certain people, French, Fulfulde, or Guiziga
• Greeting everyone, always, even in the city
• Holding babies in church, on the bus to the market, but only the ones who don’t scream when they are near me
• Sitting at other people’s houses, not talking and not feeling awkward
• Watching my friend Lowal cook couscous and sauce, then eating her, her grandmother, and little cousin off the same plate, finishing by asking for the bowl of water to wash the food off my hands and saying to le, or that’s enough
• Kids playing cards in the “living room” while I read, marveling that I can pay attention with the noise, which is usually shouts of I ca du!, or I am going to hit you!
• “Work” consisting of meetings, visiting people, and random conversations, over beans and beignets or waiting for a car
• Going shopping always including arguing, very politely, with the vendor, for anywhere from 5-45 minutes, and always finding out later I paid too much
• “Exercising” involving pumping water, carrying water, and biking to the paved road for food and to charge my phone

I am running out of things to say, can you tell?

the ordinary

5 April 2009
This is a good day. Yesterday the sky looked dark. I asked if it might rain and a man told me no, its not time yet. This afternoon the sky looked even darker. My counterpart told me the first rain of last year was on April 5th. As I was walking home from a meeting, the wind began to blow. Its raining right now. I just made some popcorn and hot chocolate and was going to watch a movie, but I can’t hear it over the rain beating the tin roof and the windows banging open and shut in the wind. So I’ll write a blog instead. Wait, I am going to shut the windows… Ok that’s better. It’s the first rain since October and it has come rather arrogantly. I have always loved storms, especially when I watch them from behind sealed windows and under a tight roof. This is a bit different. I am not afraid the electricity will go out. I am listening to the downpour alone instead of with my family or roommates. I am thinking of the hours I will save tomorrow because I don’t have to water my garden. I am taken off guard.

I had been planning to write a post about the ordinary. The routine has been nice, but it has also been, at times, unwelcome. I didn’t come all the way to Africa with the Peace Corps to get into a routine, did I? I came for the adventure, the unexpected, the unknown. But the unknown has become known. I am slowly less and less surprised by what I see. Life has started to feel ordinary. More importantly, the work I am doing seems ordinary. But maybe that’s ok. Maybe life catches up to you. There are dishes to wash, floors to sweep, and groceries to buy no matter where you are. At first things seem new and exciting, but then they stop feeling that way. We get used to things and sometimes even stop noticing them. I am sure there are people who wake up everyday and can see the big picture of their lives. They can see the direction they are going and follow it with purpose, but for the rest of us, the trees hide the forest. The notion I held of Africa has disappeared, or at least it’s not where I am. I live in Moudawa and the kids with missing, or broken shoes have names, like Vaigi or Gita. I am not doing international development work; I am trying to get my friends to plant trees. It’s still possible to get caught up in routine even when you are among huts, dirty (and very cute) kids, women in yards of pagne with babies strapped to their back and buckets on their head. And then it rains. The wind has stopped, but the rain is still loud against the tin roof. There are bugs flying around my computer screen and I am sweating, so maybe I am still in Africa.

finding a routine

29 March 2009
It seems I have been a bit neglectful eh? I finally found some sort of routine, but it didn’t seem to include internet. I guess I can try to give an update on life au village.

One might think that 3 weeks of being busy would be difficult to write about in one post, but one would be wrong. Mondays I teach English in the primary school in Moudawa. The days vary between a lot of fun and extremely frustrating. Tuesday mornings, I teach in Gazad and the difference between the two schools is hard to believe. I can’t explain why the two schools are so different because I might get in trouble. Ask me in an e-mail and I will be glad to vent about it. Wednesday mornings I go to the health center while pregnant women and women with newborns come in for shots. I don’t really know anything about it, but I sometimes give animations on HIV/AIDS, and will eventually do some on plants that give needed nutrition to babies and moms. Wednesday afternoons and Thursday mornings, I have French tutoring. Some Saturdays I go to the market in Salak for vegetables or whatever else I need. Sundays is church and also when my meetings are held. Right now I am meeting with 4 groups, the men and women separately in both Moudawa and Gazad. They are still going pretty well, although I am trying to steer them away from big projects into things they are better able to do on their own, with their own resources. All that free time between those things (and there’s quite a bit) is spent reading, playing with kids, working on my garden, or laughing with Lowal (Claudine).

This past week has been a bit different; there has been a meeting all week in Maroua for my training group. The first few days were with our counterparts and we talked about what everyone had been doing at post, project planning, and how to incorporate things like raising awareness for HIV/AIDS, women and youth empowerment, and community unity in to the work. I think my counterparts really enjoyed it, and just spending a little bit more time with him than usual was probably a good thing as well. The counterparts all left on Wednesday and from there we talked about how to do our trimester reports, best practices, and med and security sessions. On Thursday, the agro kids went on a field trip to see a bee farm at lake Maga. We also met with a guy who buys and ships gum Arabic, which is a good contact to have so close to my village. The best part was getting to hang out with everyone again, not to mention air-conditioning, hot showers, and really great food.

Its starting to get hot. Yesterday I was sitting on the porch at the Peace Corps house in Maroua, thinking how pleasant it was. There is a thermostat out there and someone read it and said it was 106 degrees. How quickly we adjust! I guess most of you know by now that I am an aunt! Klaire Elizabeth was born on March 23rd, which was in the first minutes of the 24th for me. So I decided that her and I will always celebrate her birthday a day later. I can’t believe my brother is a dad. I don’t want to grow up, but everyone else is so it makes me look bad if I don’t. Also, thanks for all the messages on Facebook for my birthday. You all are great. I celebrated the next day with a trip to Waza. We saw antelope, tons of beautiful birds, ostriches, wild dogs, gazelle, and giraffes. The coolest part was when we got out of the car and snuck up on a group of giraffes. They are so bizarre. They look so awkward, but they move with such grace. It’s a strange thing to watch. It was a good trip, but I wish I could have seen elephants or lions. But maybe I can go again and get lucky. I better go, I still have to go to the internet café and post this and then get back to the village by 15h, or 3. Have a great week and I will try to post a little bit more often. Love you guys!

water

3 March 2009
Finally the internet! It’s been a while since I was able to get online. And still I am sitting in the office typing hoping the internet will actually start working, as of right now there is nothing. Things are going really well. I had two meetings last Sunday. I decided maybe I would take a couple of blog posts to talk about the problems the people have mentioned. The big one is water. That tops the lists in both Moudawa and Gazal. So this is pretty much what I have learned from the meeting and my own experience.

In Moudawa, there are 3 deep wells, la forage en Francais. There is also an open well that is basically only usable during the rainy season. I think there is still a little in it right now, but its really dirty. One of the 3 good wells is broken right now. They just about have the money to repair it, and so hopefully that will happen soon. So right now the whole village, about 900 people, are using two wells. People wait in line for hours, and the actually pumping of the water gets really hard during the afternoon and into the evening. To avoid waiting, some women go in the middle of the night to get water. My friend Esther, woke up at 1:30 a few nights last week to go get water. I hear kids yelling and playing at the well until 11:00 or midnight. Yesterday, Esther and I needed to water the garden and so we needed 4 bindongues (water jugs, 20 liters each) of water. I went at 12:30 and at 3 we hauled the first load of 2 jugs back to the house. I finished watering my garden and trees at almost 5:30. I use about 1 jug a day in the house. When I wash clothes, that’s more. Now imagine you have 8 kids to cook for, wash dishes for, wash clothes, give baths. The time it takes to get the water for all of that adds up quickly. Gazal is a little smaller, but there is only one well that works all the time. The other one has broken twice in the last month. When that happens, some of the women come to Moudawa to get water, which means waiting even longer. The walk between the two villages is about a mile and a half. The women and girls carry the water on their heads back home, probably laughing about something the whole way.

I wish I could give them new wells tomorrow, but we are going to have to wait a little longer than that. They are really expensive and they are still trying to pay for their part of a new school. Taking at least 10 hours out of every week to get water is not something we would put up with in the states. Here it is part of life.

So that’s first on the to-do list. I wish it was that easy.

malaria!

19 Feb 2009

Dear Captive Audience,

Up until now I have been relatively healthy.  I know that must be disappointing for some of you, who are reading this blog patiently waiting for something actually interesting.  Like parasites, worms, elephant stampedes, or a tough disease shot from the tiny gun of a mosquito’s mouth.

Well wait no more.  Last week, I got Malaria.  My mom said when she told a few people, their first response was “so is she coming home?”  No, I am still here, although for about a day all I wanted was to curl up on the couch with a good book and an afghan, but there aren’t many of those around here.  J

When I went to sleep on Friday night, I was freezing cold.  Kind of strange in Africa, but I didn’t think much of it.  I woke up on Saturday with a headache and stomach issues.  I mostly just thought it was no big deal, but throughout the day, the headache got worse.  I was with some other volunteers and they did an excellent job taking care of me, not to mention listening to me complain.  One girl who had seen someone else with Malaria was convinced I had it.  I really didn’t think that’s what it was, but my friend did the blood slides for me, and I went ahead and started the medicine after my fever got up to 103.  That was at 6 PM and I had to wake up at 2 AM to take the next dose and the fever was already gone.  The next day, I just had a headache and was tired.  The day after that, the headache was gone.  I have still been a little bit tired, but that could also be from traveling.

So I can check that one off my list.  Other volunteers have been giving me high-fives, maybe a rite of passage?  I wish there was someway I could convince everyone at home that I really am fine, but you will just have to trust me.

Because of that I missed my first meeting with the women in Moudawa that I had scheduled.  When I got back and told people I had malaria, they were understanding, but not as impressed as I wanted them to be.  So all of you will have to do, please, tell me how impressed you are. 

Waiting patiently for your empathetic response,
The completely healthy Peace Corps volunteer in the Extreme North.